A note about my saw handles: European steamed beech is the standard wood I use. Figured maple, cherry, black walnut – all of these are nice woods and just ideas of other woods that can be used for handles. I can make you a handle from your wood of choice, depending on availability. Prices go up, the pricier the wood gets. Prices listed are for beech. Handles are offered finished or natural.
Also, if you have hands the size of Paul Bunyan, or a gnome, let me know so that I can size the handle to your needs. This is best accomplished by sending an actual sized photo or tracing of your hand. Scan it, or send it via post. And remember, my saws are designed for the classic three finger grip.
A note about my saw blades: The saw blades I make are hand shaped and filed from 1095 high carbon spring steel, approximate Rockwell hardness of 55. I hand sharpen and polish them. I file them without fleam, like saws were filed in the 18th centuries and earlier (debatable), more or less rake, depending on what and how you would like to use the saw. I can add fleam, change blade thicknesses, any manner of custom options are available, just ask me, and I’ll let you know the price difference. Custom work is welcome, but will cost more, depending on the project, and may be turned down depending on my schedule. I operate a small flexible shop.
A note about my split nut hardware: My saws are furnished with split nut hardware, though it’s not entirely traditional. You may notice two small indents on the face of the saw bolt, these are small sockets for the driver bit, which is included with each saw order. I believe these to be superior to traditional saw nuts, since you can easily crank them down without stripping out the split nuts on the back . A split nut driver or small screwdriver may need to be inserted into the split nut, to hold it captive for tightening and loosening.